2010: architect Werner Tscholl drew his inspiration from the forms and motion of the grapevine to design the Tramin Winery, which becomes a sculpture of metal, cement and glass without sacrificing its practical purpose, and where everything is under the power of the aromatic Gewurtztraminer. 1967: Carlo Scarpa designed the Tabarelli home just outside Bolzano with five parallel walls like the rows of a vineyard or an orchard forming the main structure which is closed in by big side windows, representing the history of twentieth-century design. Two architectural testimonies forty years apart, both inspired by the landscape of Alto Adige.
The Tramin winery in Termeno, designed to offer the best possible habitat for wine, and Scarpa’s house as an example of architecture inspired by the shape of the mountains around it and the direction of the rows in the vineyard. The two icons sum up our itinerary in search of wine and architecture/design in Alto Adige: a weekend to satisfy the senses of sight and taste.
About 10 minutes by car from the Bolzano sud motorway exit, dine at the Enoteca Ristorante Pillhof in Appiano. This restaurant and wine bar is located on the 15th century Ansitz Pillhof estate, a stop on the wine route, and features architecture of the past and present in a situation of harmony and reciprocal respect.
After this, go on to Caldaro Lake, where you can surf in summer or ice-skate in the Dolomitic winter. Here you can also visit the Wine Museum with its educational path of discovery of old vineyards and different grape varieties. Stay at the Stroblhof Hotel in a room decorated in rustic or Biedermeier style. Start the next day with a visit to the winery underneath the vineyard.
This is the key to the idea inspiring Manincor winery in Caldaro, built by architects Angonese-Koberl-Boday.
A flat roof of bare cement on wooden pillars, smoothed concrete, corten steel, oak and glass are the technically advanced elements that accompany tourists as they sample the estate’s top wine, Kalterersee.
Enjoy an aperitif at the Caldaro Winecenter, built in 2006 by the Viennese architects of Feld72. Brown concrete fibre panels alternate with big, light windows. In less than half an hour you can be in Bolzano to visit Museion, the museum of modern and contemporary art designed as an art workshop by the studio of architects Krueger, Schuberth and Vandrelke in Berlin, and shop for the products of local designers such as Luis Trenker who produces new versions of traditional clothes, or Zilla, whose bags are made out of construction materials: bits of air filters, insulation and carpeting.
When you get back, dine at the Schwarz Adler Restaurant in Cortaccia, the town’s oldest inn, renovated to preserve tradition and combine it with innovative forms and colours. On the last day, take time out to visit the Alois Lageder winery in Magrè, with its holistic, sustainable approach to winemaking.
The new winery, which opened in 1995, was designed by architects Abram & Schnabl of Bolzano using biological materials and energy-saving systems. Here you can enjoy a great Chardonnay or Pinot Grigio. And just over a year ago, a bistro with a garden opened in the area: Le Verre Capricieux in Termeno, designed by architect David Stuflesser. The perfect place for a light snack after a weekend discovering wine and architecture and enjoying both in total relaxation.