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Our itinerary in the city of Tel Aviv could only start in the old city of Jaffa, with its sandstone houses rising between rocks and sand dunes overlooking the Mediterranean. 
The narrow lanes bearing the signs of the zodiac of the artists' district are packed with shops selling beautiful silver filigree jewellery, antiques and spices of all kinds, including inebriating rosewater. But the key attraction is the old fishing harbour, with its restaurants and cafés where you can sip a cup of Bedouin coffee flavoured with cardamom and cinnamon. 
“Container” is a restaurant, bar and art space in a converted industrial warehouse, intentionally left unfinished to create the neglected look but very trendy in the bar area, offering quality meals combining North African, Middle Eastern and Italian cuisines. Special attractions include the famous Abulafia bakery in Yefet Street, open 24 hours a day: a symbol of Jews and Arabs living side by side, the bakery is world-famous for its dozens of varieties of stuffed pita bread, and the Souk Sala'Hi, a bazaar near the Clock Tower.

On the waterfront of Jaffa in Tel Aviv is an icon of contemporary architecture, The House of Peace by Massimiliano and Doriana Fuksas. The building is a parallelepiped created by overlapping layers of concrete and glass. But it is the “White City” that makes Tel Aviv the world's biggest open-air museum of the Bauhaus style.
Before venturing into this residential district, be sure to visit the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, currently being renovated. The museum contains works of modern and contemporary art and hosts one of the world's biggest collections of Israeli art.
The White City includes about 4000 buildings constructed in the 20s, 30s and 40s, about a thousand of which are still standing, qualifying Tel Aviv for addition to the list of the world's 56 historical cities in 2003 to become a Unesco World Heritage Site.

Strolling along Rothschild, Bialik and Dizengoff Streets, we note big, square white buildings with terraces, balconies and tall pillars, all with large windows to bring views of the city into the home. There are plenty of places to stop for lunch in the neighbourhood. The “Café Noir”, an institution for the people of Tel Aviv, has outdoor tables. 
Then there is the Live O shop of interior designers Sigal Baranowitz and Gal Amit, dedicated entirely to the marvels of the olive oil produced by trees grown in the brackish waters of the Revivim Kibbutz in the Negev desert. The shop offers a great selection of olive oils, vinegars and salts, as well as a special selection of cosmetics. At the end of this long itinerary, head towards Nave Rasco, Ramat Hasharon. Just when you think you have lost your way in the maze of tiny lanes, an oasis of calm appears before your very eyes. There, hiding behind a screen of green, you unexpectedly stumble across the entrance to Reviva and Celia's Café. In addition to the fantastic breakfast offering an assortment of homemade pastries and cakes, bagels and breads, the Café offers dishes reminiscent of Italian cuisine in the evening, accompanied by a selection of quality Israeli white, rosé and red wines.
 
Cintya Concari